Solar Regulator Breakdown

Synopsis: The Solar Regulator receives charge from the solar panels (via the communication Card) and also power from the batteries. The Regulator controls both the volume of power that is supplied to the batteries for charging and the power required for the unit to function.

• Level: Easy
• Time required: 5-10 minutes
• Additional equipment required: Voltmeter

Figure 1 - Older solar regulator

Figure 2 - New solar regulator

LED indicators

Figure 3 - Old regulator LEDs

LED	LED Colour	State	Description
L1	Red	On solid	Low Voltage Disconnect (LVD)
L2	Yellow	On solid	Batteries in FLOAT charging mode
L3	Green	Fast flash (2 per second)	Batteries in BULK charging mode
L3	Green	Slow Flash (1 per 2 seconds)	Batteries in STANDBY mode and not charging
L4	Red	On solid	No communications between regulator and controller
L5	Green	Flashing	Data present on communication bus
L6	Yellow	Flashing	Received data is specific to the module

Figure 4 - New regulator LEDs

Figure 5 - New regulator LEDs

LED	LED Colour	State	Description
L3 (LVD)	Red	On solid	Low Voltage Disconnect (LVD), recharge unit to 12.6+ volts
L4 (CHARGE)	Green	Flashing	Batteries charging
L6 (LOAD ON)	Green	Flashing	Unit receiving voltage and working normally
COM ERROR	Red	Solid	Unit not communicating with the regulator, check wiring

Checking voltages

Using a voltmeter, it is possible to test the input voltage of the Solar Panels and Batteries and also the output voltage to the V-touch controller and the message board.

Figure 6 - Getting voltage on the older solar regulator

Voltage	Black voltmeter probe	Red voltmeter probe
Batteries	Grey 2	Red 1
Solar Panels	Grey 2	Red 2
Power output	Grey 2	Grey 1

Figure 7 - Getting voltage on new solar regulator

Figure 8 - Demo of getting battery voltage on the new solar regulator

Powering a WR-31 modem via the new Solar Regulator

Figure 9 - WR-31 wiring on the new regulator

Low Voltage Disconnect (LVD)

When the batteries discharge to 10.4V the PCMS goes into an LVD which shuts off the power to the sign. This is done to prevent the batteries from being damaged. The red LVD indicator will illuminate.

The only way to get the sign out of LVD is to charge the batteries above 12.6 volts. Ideally using an IOTA on-board charger with IQ-4, otherwise, they can hook a charger up to the batteries.

The J connectors

J3 connector is for the Temperature Probe.

J4 connector is the power for the controller, these are also known as the RS cables.

J5 connector is the power to the top printed board (acts as a jumper). If this cable is loose or disconnected, there will be no power to the regulator or sign case.

30A Fuse

There are two 30A fuses on the Solar Regulator. The bottom one is live, the top one is a spare.

If the 30A fuse blows it is generally due to wiring problems or shorts in the message sign.

If the fuse blows, perform a continuity test and check all wiring before replacing the fuse in the regulator, otherwise, the replacement fuse will also blow and there is only one spare.

1. Check the main harness for damage or shorted wiring.

If the harness is OK, please proceed to step 4.

2. If there is a problem with the harness, unhook the regulator.
3. Continuity test the red and grey Anderson connectors.
4. Work your way up to the sign case, and check all wiring to make sure there are no shorts.

No LEDs illuminated

If the regulator does not have any LEDs illuminated, first check the battery voltage.

If the voltage is under 10 volts, the regulator will not light up and the unit will need charging overnight.

Once the unit is charged to over 12.7V, if there are still no LEDs illuminated, the regulator is defective.